Another Adventurous Day in Udaipur

First this article just came to our attention and may ruin plans to get to Delhi and fly out. Riots are usually short, but the damage may be long term. If they end soon enough we can simply take a bus, which is really undesirable and possibly dangerous. If worse comes to worse I think we can fly, but that's expensive.

I guess it has been a while since I've made a real post, but the story goes back to Thursday. Thursday is when the saree (also spelled "sari") shopping began. Sarees are traditional Indian wear that ranges from everyday use to wedding use. Some are the equivalent of a cheap beach dress, while others the equivalent to a wedding dress. Traditionally, the only other thing a woman might wear is a salwar kamese (Brittany has a few we had tailored) which is a long shirt, baggy pants, and a dupata (long piece of decorative cloth worn around the neck). There was one shop that was recommended that had a couple of used sarees we liked (when buying used you must be meticulous, but used can be better as the silk is already broken in). We wanted to gauge prices so we hired an auto driver to take us to a really nice saree shop. Of course, most places will give an auto driver a commission, so we knew better than to buy. On the way we picked out another saree place close to the one he took us to. He dropped us off and we went inside. We kept giving them a price range and they kept showing us stuff that was double the price-range, so we simply left. We checked out the place across the street and our former auto driver yelled at me from across the street. I took a close look just to make sure, and yes, he was giving me the bird. I admit, I might have had a better reaction, but without thinking I gave him the best middle finger and the most sarcastic look I could muster. I know it was terrible and that's a dirty sign, and giving it back doesn't really solve anything. I followed my gut reaction without thinking. While it wasn't a good or right thing to do, it was kind of comical in some way.

He rushed across the street, dodging oncoming motorcycles and cars and I found very quickly the perfect middle finger I was so proud of hadn't phased him and he was upset we hadn't bought from the shop. He shouldn't have known. For all he knew we were having them tailored and sent to our door, which is very common. He knew because he went back for his commission. It's kind of the most threatened I've felt since I've been in India. The man looked demon possessed, I don't think he was, I mean, I think he was just cracked out on drugs. I simply told the guy that if he didn't get away from Brittany and I, that I would either report him or get violent. So, he got in his auto rickshaw and came to us and then asked us if he could take us some other place, but we ignored him and he left for good.

The next day we woke up early, after all, our hotel is directly across from the Jagdesh temple and Vishnu demands a half hour of incessant and obnoxious bell ringing at six in the morning. It's like having a hangover, only we didn't drink the night before. Once up and going, Brittany went to the internet cafe to add more pictures and I went for my sitar lesson.

Saresh is a good teacher, and very patient with me. Sitar is actually really hard, much harder than any other instrument I've tried to play (perhaps with the exception of violin). It's not really like you imagine it. First thing is you only play the bottom string with your left hand. Like, you strum all of the strings, but the only string you actually fret is the bottom string. Then you are only supposed to use your index and middle finger to fret. You would think this instrument would be far easier than guitar, maybe it is once you get used to it , but the instrument itself is a bit clumsy to hold. It's not only difficult to hold, but pretty much any way you sit with it your legs or backside is uncomfortable; in fact, the proper classical position is like yoga. If you're used to the fret positions of a guitar, you'll quickly find that it doesn't work the same, as the next fret may or may not be a semi-tone difference. The playability is stiff and it's like trying to play a guitar with incredibly high action with an incredibly high-gauge unwound string. Of course, maybe like 2 people will actually understand what I'm talking about. Basically it's hard to hold and it hurts to play. Like guitar, I'm sure you get used to it and with practice it comes more natural.

In all honesty, I'm not head-over-heels for the instrument. It sounds pretty cool and it's really novel, and I'm a fast learner on it, but it doesn't really hold my attention. After a lesson I'm more or less disenchanted with it and don't really feel like picking it up. On one hand, I feel like I only wanted a sitar for the novelty, like the "I have one and you don't" thing or that I'd buy one just because I'm afraid I'll regret not getting one, and on the other hand, it really would be cool to have. It has unique sounds, that I like, and it could really be fun to write music on it. So far, I've only played one sitar I like the sound and feel of enough to drop money on it and it comes out to Rs9500, which is roughly $240USD. Musicians will say that's a good price and everyone else will find it expensive. I did poke around online and I found that buying a sitar in the United States usually starts at $400 for a beginner model (I confess I didn't do much research, so you may find better) and for a middle-of-the-line professional-level like the one I like it's at least $600.

I guess it really depends on money, as the $600 the government owed us is no longer an issue, but I did some math and if I want any money left when I get home I would do well to not use most of it. Then again, if certain things cost less than expected I'll be able to get one, otherwise it will be a non-issue and I won't have the money. I admit, in a sense it isn't disappointing, like there's this optimism of "Oh, more money when I get back home, so I don't have to eat ramen and work extra hard." On the other hand, there's a fear that I will regret it, especially since I like this one sitar. We'll see.

After sitar lessons, Saresh invited us to his house. We took an auto there and spent the morning meeting his family. Then, it was time to head back, but there was no auto so he took us on his motorcycle. This wasn't a big Harley. No, the three of us packed on for the ride of our lives. Brittany and I got off with the adrenaline still pumping.

Then we went to a couple of saree places. We ended up at a small shop where the owner was nice. They throw down a ton of sarees and you pick out what you like and what you don't. Traditionally you kind of narrow it down after that. Things were going well until a young man, about our age, came down and started pushing us. We would say we don't like a saree and he would say "Oh, but this is beautiful and very fine" and sometimes we said "It's ok, set it to the side and we'll decide in a little bit", and when all was said and done we had about 20 sarees picked out we liked. When we started to sort them out they acted shocked and claimed that most Americans buy 20 to 30 sarees and we simply said we don't have the money to buy everything we like. The young man literally scoffed at us and said all Americans are rich.

I'm not saying America is worse off than India, after all people who own TVs are still below the "poverty line", but I will say that even in the poorest parts of Udaipur at ten o'clock at night Brittany and I have felt more or less completely safe, but if I were in a slum in America I would probably be smart to fear for my life. Yes, Brittany and I, in many ways, are poor. Just like anyone, we struggle to make ends meet, and though we've been blessed with many amenities and are grateful for those, we by no means live in luxury. In India, we aren't so poor. I got a leather bound photo album for $7.50. Brittany and I have eaten a gourmet meal, as good or better than your favorite fine-dining restaurant, for literally less than $40 allowing for one drink for each of us. We stayed six nights in the honeymoon suite of an air conditioned hotel with the best view in this city for $100 total. But that doesn't mean I can fork out $200+ for a bunch of sarees I have to turn around and have tailored. I simply refuse to believe every American who buys a saree goes to a little shop, buys 20, and has them tailored. It's not only expensive, but stupid and unnecessary.

So, we narrowed it down to three. Two were chiffon, a see-through fabric that can be nice, but is also good for everyday use and then one silk-blend that was pretty cool. All in all, it cost Rs1100, which we later found was about Rs400 too much. You live and you learn. The chiffon ones were Rs300 and should have been Rs150 at the most, and I figured Rs300 was reasonable as I couldn't imagine getting 5 1/2 meters of fabric for less than that.

Oh well, we went on and looked at some more sarees. One our way to one shop we found a man feeding monkeys and he let us feed them as well. It was quite fun, and interesting. There are pictures on Facebook.

Yesterday we got the stuff together for the sarees. You have to buy fabric for the blouse and petticoat which goes under the saree. Then we went and bought one of the used sarees from the first shop. So, we got all that and with the help of the Soni family, we took it to the tailor. We then found the nicer of the three we bought was too small, so we tried to exchange it only to find every saree they had in the shop was a half-meter smaller than a traditional saree. We had asked them if this saree was 6 1/2 meters (as this particular type was supposed to be) and they said yes, but now that it was only 6 meters they claimed it was normal.

Well it got ugly, and long story short they found one that was more expensive that was the right length. There was more yelling and stuff, but eventually they offered an even trade. We then found that the saree we traded really was worth more and they weren't trying to rip us off. We felt kind of bad for all of the harsh words, and plan on paying them the fair price. They are corrupt people, but being right isn't always as important as doing right.

We just finished Searching for God Knows What by Donald Miller and I recommend to just about anyone, Christian or non-Christian. Well, time is running out, but there's more to say. I'll catch you later, in the mean time there are now six India albums on Facebook for your viewing pleasure. Just go a post or two back for the links.